Jancis Robinson

jancisrobinson.com 2011

2010 Hochterrassen Grüner Veltliner 16,5/20
Citrus aroma but still has that post-fermentation aroma a little like peardrops. Even a light note of vanilla despite the complete absence of oak - but this seems to blow off in the glass. More impressive on the palate: almost savoury in its mineral tension with only a hint of citrus and white pepper. Bags of tension and freshness but surprising depth and length given the modest alcohol. Classically restrained intensity and so refreshing, with a peppery aftertaste that feels almost like a spritz but isn't. Only just ready for drinking but I'd prefer to wait a few months at least.

2010 Messwein Kremstal DAC Grüner Veltliner 16,5/20
Pretty restrained on the nose - wet stones and a delicate note of citrus. Mouthwatering (almost eye-watering) acidity - a real racehorse with plenty of sinew but no excess flesh. Pure and lean and envigorating but with quite a strong flavour of fresh pear on the finish. A little monastic!

2010 Wachtberg Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Grüner Veltliner 17/20
Mineral and a delicate note of white pepper but scented in a way those words do not convey. A little bit herbal and floral but barely so. Great restraint on the nose. Pretty embryonic but dense and already giving pleasure - but I'd give it another year.

2009 Wieden & Berg Kremstal DAC Grüner Veltliner 17,5/20
More spice and a little riper fruit character than the Messwein. Lively and pure, lots of fine pepper and spice but fully supported by the pear and apple fruit flavours. Fine dusty texture and long.

2006 Undhof Auslese Riesling 18/20
Not made in every year. Delicately fragrant with clear botrytis influence: orange, apricot and linseed. Very concentrated, very young and needs time to show off.