International Wine Cellar

Stephen Tanzer 4/2011

2009 Von Stein Kremstal DAC Reserve Grüner Veltliner 91/100
Medium green-yellow. Initially quite restrained nose opens with aeration to reveal subtle tobacco, pepper, apple and celery salt. Full-bodied, round and supple, with wonderfully integrated acidity highlighting the pear and apple fruit. Finishes subtle but long. This wine will benefit tremendously from another couple years of patience and should offer considerable pleasure through 2024.

2009 Lindberg Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Reserve Grüner Veltliner 92/100
Medium green-yellow. Attractive fennel and tobacco nuances complicate cantaloupe and yellow apple on the nose. Full-bodied but tightly woven, with layered ripe melon and mineral-laced lime wrapped up in a solid core of acidity. This complex wine finishes long, with attractive spiciness. Drink 2012 to 2024.

2009 Undhof Kögl Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Riesling 90/100
Pale green-yellow. Attractive fruity bouquet of peach, apricot and pineapple perfumed by a touch of orange zest. Wonderfully crisp and fresh in the mouth, with a juicy green apple flavor accented by lively lemony acidity. I can't imagine this racy, classy wine ever becoming tiring to drink. It should hold well to 2024.

2009 Steiner Kögl Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Riesling Reserve 92/100
Pale green-yellow. Honey-drizzled passion fruit and white vineyard peach are backed by flinty minerality on the nose. White peach, lime, acacia honey and river rock are suspended on a vibrating curve of acid in this complex and exciting riesling. Restrained but already quite long, this wine will continue to gain in complexity with bottle aging. Drink 2014 to 2024.

2009 Pfaffenberg Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Riesling 92/100
Medium green-yellow. Expressive, generous, distinctly tropical aromas of passion fruit, papaya and honey-laced peach. Racy acid and firm minerality toy with the sweet extract straight through to the finish, which lingers with wet slate and lemon.

2009 Pfaffenberg Erste Lage Kremstal DAC Riesling Reserve Metternich & Salomon 93/100
Medium green-yellow. Delicate peach, fully ripe mango, apricot blossom honey and abundant mineral nuances comprise an expressive nose. The wine's focused, delineated structure carries its stone fruit and abundant wet slate minerality with astounding finesse. Extremely long on the aftertaste, with gorgeous mango and apricot fruit complemented by lemon and honey nuances. Real grand cru quality here, with aging potential at least through 2024.