100 Best Wines of 2017: 95/ STEINER KÖGL Riesling 2015

Wine and Spirits Magazine N.Y.: 95/ SALOMON UNDHOF  STEINER KÖGL Erste Lage Riesling Resere Kremstal dac. Bertold Salomon harvests this wine from his oldest vines in the Kögl vineyard, where the primary soils are flecked with crystalline schist. The wine seems to channel the leanness of the soils in the austerity of its structure, a chiseld line of mineral flavors. The acidity follows, teasing out the fruit flavors with air - lemon curd and fresh, barely ripe peaches, a little pear-skin nuttiness to add savor. Follow it for another couple of days and the notes grow into a full-blown orchestra, with an umami savor that gives it satisfying fullness without weight. This should age well over the next 14 years.